3D Vision Blog

A normal user's look into the world of 3D Stereo Technologies

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How to Use Any 3D DLP Projector Together with 3D Vision

December 24th, 2010 · 23 Comments · GeForce 3D Vision

I’m getting a lot of questions from people that bought a 3D DLP projector how to make it work with 3D Vision and when I see the device model I immediately notice that it is not in the list of 3D Vision-certified DLP projectors. This means that you will not be able to just connect the projector, install the drivers and everything to start working with 3D Vision, it normally means you cannot make things work, however you are not out of options. You can make a simple modification that will make things work somewhat, but there might also be some side effects, so you should be careful. Most of the 3D DLP projectors use the DSUB15 analog connector for connecting and transferring 3D data, however the more recent Nvidia-based video cards do come with digital DVI outputs only. So in order not to destroy the VGA cable, you will also need a simple VGA to DVI adapter like the one on the picture above (in this case a single link DVI-A) to make things work, but you can also use a single or dual link DVI-I (DVI-D will not work). Then you just have to break the two pins that are pointed out with red arrows on the picture and you are almost ready to go…

The two pins you are going to remove from the adapter are used for the Extended display identification data (EDID), a standard that is used to identify a monitor connected to a PC and what the display is capable of (resolutions and refresh rates). Without those two pins the computer will not be able to automatically recognize the projector you are connecting and it will be treated as a generic analogue display (CRT), because you are using the adapter connected to the projector through a VGA cable. And since the 3D Vision drivers actually do support all sorts of CRT displays if they can manage to provide you with at least 100Hz refresh rate, you can pass the 3D Vision Setup Wizard and have 3D Vision working. But before that you will need to load up some sort of a driver to let windows know what modes or refresh rates your “CRT display” actually supports. I prefer to use the Nvidia Control Panel and add a custom resolution at 120Hz refresh rate and work with that, instead of loading a driver for Acer H5360 for example for other 720p capable not officially supported 3D DLP Projector.

As I’ve mentioned already, this method works in order to allow you to enable the 3D Vision to work with pretty much any 3D DLP projector, treating the projector as a CRT display. The problem that you might get is related to the fact that you may get the left and right frames reversed and that can ruin the experience, unless you want to wear your glasses upside down. There are some measures to help you counter that issue, like reversion the left and right frames of a video from the software player you may be using or the photo viewer for 3D photos, some projectors also have a built in mode to reverse the left/right frames although that does not always work and so on.

List of 3D Vision-Ready DLP Projectors:

– Acer X1261-3D
– Acer X1130P
– Acer H5360
– Acer X1110
– BenQ MS612ST
– DepthQ HD 3D Projector by LightSpeed Design, Inc.
– DQ-3120 by LightSpeed Design, Inc.
– Optoma GT360
– Optoma GT720
– Optoma HD67
– Optoma HD66
– Optoma HW536
– Optoma IS500
– Optoma XE149
– NEC NP216
– Sanyo PDG-DWL2500
– ViewSonic PJD6531w
– ViewSonic PJD6220-3D
– ViewSonic PJD6210-3D
– ViewSonic PJD5351
– ViewSonic PJD5111
– ViewSonic PJD6381
– ViewSonic PJD6211
– ViewSonic PJD6221
– ViewSonic PJD6241
– ViewSonic PJD6251
– ViewSonic PJD5112

What I would recommend however is to save a lot of trouble and just go for a 3D Vision certified 3D projector if you are now going to buy one from the list above, especially when talking about gaming in stereo 3D mode. Obviously going for Acer, Optoma or Viewsonic should be the best choice as they already have a wide product line that supports 3D and you can choose the best model that fits your requirements better. But if you’ve already bought a 3D DLP projector that is not officially supported and you don’t want/have additional money to spend for a new one, then the above method might help you get things running…

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Modifying the 3D Vision Glasses to Show 2D Left or Right Frame Only

August 1st, 2010 · 24 Comments · GeForce 3D Vision

I’ve been thinking about the idea of modifying the 3D Vision active shutter glasses so that both of their lenses can show only the left or only the right image from stereo 3D content being displayed on a 120Hz LCD monitor. The reason for such modification is to have a pair of 3D Vision active shutter glasses that can be used to watch in 2D when the display is actually showing 3D content, thus allowing some people to see the 3D content and others to see the same content, but in 2D… all at the same time. On the demo video above you can see a demonstration showing what I was able to achieve after a few hours spent to learn how the 3D Vision glasses function and to modify them. And the same modification should be possible to just about any other pair of active shutter glasses, for example a pair of shutter glasses that is used with a 3D-capable HDTV…

As you know some people are not feeling comfortable when watching stereoscopic 3D content, or do not see the 3D effect at all because of having some issue with their eyes, however at the moment nobody is offering 2D shutter glasses for these people to enjoy the same content with their family or friends in 2D while others are using 3D glasses and seeing in stereo 3D. When displaying stereo 3D content on the screen that is intended to be watched with shutter glasses, you cannot watch it without glasses and with the glasses it is in stereo 3D. This is why you need the glasses to show only the left or the right frame at the same time through both shutters and blocking the other view, so that you will be actually seeing 2D content, but the only way to do that currently is by physically modifying the glasses (loosing the warranty of course).

The next interesting possibility by having two pairs of modified 3D Vision shutter glasses – one to show the left and the other to show the right frames only, is to allow the sharing of a single 120Hz LCD monitor between two users watching different content. Of course both users will be able to watch different 2D content with 60Hz each, like two different movies for example, or a movie and a game, even two different games at the same time, although this becomes harder on the software side. However this possibility should not be neglected as it can be quite useful, especially since it will not be that hard to also have different audio for the two users depending on what content they are watching. But here I’m just talking about a possible future perspective that may or may not be exploited…

Now to the point on how you can actually modify a pair of 3D Vision active shutter glasses should you decided to do so because of various reasons, some of which I’ve already mentioned above or for something else. Just a reminder that doing the following modification will void your warranty and it also requires some soldering skills etc., so if you are not sure in your abilities please do not try this modification as there is risk of damaging the glasses!

This is not my first time opening the 3D Vision shutter glasses, so it was an easy task for me, however you should be careful when doing that. There is just one screw hidden under the nosepiece and the rest is just separating the different plastic elements from each other, carefully not to brake them, although the plastic used for the glasses is quite strong. After opening the glasses you need to disconnect the control board (in the left side of the glasses) as you need to work with the flexible connector cable that goes to the IR receiver, both shutters and the battery on the right. On the photo above you can see which two pins are used for the left (L) and for the right (R) shutter – two separate circuits that we need to bridge together so that both shutters will be open or closed at the same time and not change state one after another.

We need to bridge both shutters in a single loop using the left or right signaling line only depending on whether we want them to show only the left or only the right frame (left is usually used for watching in 2D). A good place to solder a wire is at the bottom part of the shutters where we can peel off a bit of the plastic covering the reveal the metal connection pad where we can solder the connecting cable.

Using a thin 30 AWG Kynar insulated wire does a great job in connecting both shutters with each other at their bottom parts so now the triggering electricity will go from the first to the second shutter and trigger them together. But we need to do one more bridge in order for the modification to work – we need to close the bridge between the two other lines used by both shutters in order for them to function as we with them to.

We need to bridge the 6th and 10th pins together by using an even thinner cable or alternatively you can use some conductive paint etc. After that we need to cover some of the pins so that they will not have contact with the electrical circuit inside the glasses depending on the left or right frame we want to be visible through the glasses from the stereo 3D content being displayed on the monitor.

Covering the 4th to 6th pins (the 5th pin is not used for anything) with a small piece of tape and preventing the pins for the right shutter to have contact with the control board we route the electricity sent to trigger the left frame through both shutters and thus we only see the left frame of the stereo 3D content being displayed.

If we cover the 10th to 12th pins (the 11th is not used for anything) with a piece of tape we prevent the contact of the pins used for the left shutter and thus both shutters are powered through the electricity triggering the right shutter only. The result as expected is that the viewer wearing the glasses only sees the right frame from the stereo 3D content being shown on the display.

You should not cover both the pins for the left and right eye, not you should leave both of them to have full contact in the electrical circuit after applying this modification as the glasses will not function either way and there is even a possibility of actually damaging then this way! So you should leave either the left or the right set of pins to have contact with the control board depending if you want the glasses to show only the left or only the right frame from the stereo 3D content being displayed. And again a word of warning as this modification will void the warranty of the 3D Vision glasses as well as it might lead to damage to them if you are not careful enough, so you should be extra careful if you decide to go and modify the glasses this way.

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