3D Vision Blog

A normal user's look into the world of 3D Stereo Technologies

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Entries Tagged as 'Other S3D Tech'

120Hz LCD Samsung 2233RZ versus 60Hz LCD Benq G2220HD

August 23rd, 2009 · 3 Comments · Other S3D Tech


Here is the second video comparing the 120Hz Samsung 2233RZ LCD display with a 60Hz Benq G2220HD LCD display and in this video you can see bigger difference compared to the one comparing the LCD with CRT at 120 Hz. The freeze frames below are from the original video, before being compressed and uploaded to youtube, so that you can compare the detail level of frames displayed on both monitors. On the freeze frames you can clearly see the advantages of the 120Hz LCD panel – less ghosting on fast moving objects, less tearing of the image with vsync set to disabled and more fluid movement of the surrounding area when you are panning faster in the game.



Take a note of the lights in the back of the last freeze frame, they do seem tripled on the 120Hz Samsung and just doubled on the 60Hz Benq monitor. Now this is clearly visible only on stop frames, but when looking at the video it is more like an advantage than a disadvantage. The thing is that this “tripling” of the objects makes the movement more fluid and natural that the doubled version, where you are like skipping the central part and the image seems much more jumpy.

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120Hz Samsung 2233RZ LCD versus CRT monitor at 120Hz

August 22nd, 2009 · 9 Comments · Other S3D Tech


As you probably know the 22″ Samsung 2233RZ LCD display is one of the first two true 120Hz LCD monitors available to the general public with the other one being the ViewSonic VX2265wm FuHzion. These are the two displays that usually go with Nvidia’s GeForce 3D Vision shutter glasses, providing great Stereoscopic 3D experience, but these monitors are also quite good even when used by themselves in normal 2D mode for gaming of course. And in order to see how good these new displays are are I took and old CRT monitor and compared it to Samsung 2233RZ with both running at 120Hz in clone mode, showing the same image. I opted for Counter Strike Source although not a big fan of the CS games, because the original CS game ca run up to 100Hz maximum, and the Source version is capable of playing at 120 hertz or frames (fps) which is more appropriate to be used when talking about the LCDs. Of course the v-sync was enabled in order to prevent the tearing of images while playing the game, so this problem is gone, however you can still notice the bit higher input lag of the LCD compared to the CRT display. You can watch the HD video above to see what are the differences and they are not much, because the two displays are pretty close in terms of response times with the LCD being in advantage here, because of better brightness, contrast etc. Use the pause button to be able to easily compare stop frames on both screens to get better idea, but here are also some stop frames in Full HD resolution taken from the original video, before being edited and uploaded to youtube.



What you can clearly see from these stop frames is that both displays are pretty close in terms of results with most of the time getting absolutely the same result on screen or with the Samsung LCD providing a bit better one. Still there are a few times where the LCD is a bit behind and in some situations you can actually see a triple image on a stop frame while the CRT has only double objects (the last freeze frame). But this can as well be considered to be an advantage, because this happens in some times where you actually have very fast moving objects and the triple image you see on the freeze frame actually makes it seem more fluid. Also have in mind that the displays run at 120Hz (120 fps) and the video is being shot with a camera running at 25 frames per second, but I also did some interesting comparisons shooting fast moving objects with 240 fps video (double the frame rate you get displayed). I’m still working on these videos, but I’ll also publish them here along with some videos comparing the 120Hz LCD to a normal 60Hz LCD monitor, so stay tuned… ;)

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Running Stereo 3D Mode on i-O Display i-glasses PC/SVGA 3D HMD

August 5th, 2009 · 3 Comments · Other S3D Tech

i-glasses-svga-front


If you have an old Stereo 3D-capable HMD like i-O Display’s i-glasses PC/SVGA or any other similar model of the company you are probably quite disappointed by the fact that S3D worked with these video glasses only on the old Nvidia Stereo drivers and these do not work on newer video cards. And if you think you are screwed and need to get rid of this old HMD you are just about half right, because there is still a way to make this 800×600 Head Mounted Display (HMD) to work in Stereo 3D mode. Thanks to a company called iZ3D (come on you have to know about them, otherwise how the hell you are interested into S3D… just kidding) and their driver you’ll be able to finally make i-glasses PC/SVGA work in Stereo 3D mode. But don’t just get too happy about that fact, because not everything is perfect and you still need to consider a few things and know about possible problems you might experience.


finalizing-iz3d-driver-installation


First of all you need to download the latest iZ3D driver and what I did was to get the V1.10RC1 from may 26, 2009. Now have in mind that this is a Release Candidate version and not a final driver and it still may have some bugs and issues present, so do not expect it to be working perfectly fine. After you download and install the driver on your computer (choose a Full Installation when asked) and don’t bother by the message that you don’t have an iZ3D compatible monitor as the driver has other modes available and you’ll use them. After the installation is finished, just make sure that Run Control Center and Enable Stereo by HotKey are checked (they should be by default). When you do that and continue you’ll be presented with the main screen of the Control Center for the iZ3D drivers where you’ll need to configure the mode you’ll be using.


iz3d-shutter-simple-config


Now in the main screen of the iZ3D Control Center you need to select Shutter (trial, beta) in the Output dropdown box and leave the option Simple in the second dropdown box on the right. The i-glasses will also work in Blue line coded mode, and there seems to be no visual or any other difference present between the both modes. If you still haven’t connected your i-glasses PC/SVGA now is the time to do so and don’t forget to make it the Primary display if you are going to use it to play games in Stereo 3D on it and at the same time have your normal monitor as a secondary display, but if you only have the HMD connected it will be the primary display by default. Don’t forget to set the refresh rate of the i-glasses high enough in order to not see them flickering when the 3D mode is activated… at least 85 Hz, but 100 Hz is better and I could set my pair to even 110 Hz without any problems.

Now you should be ready, but don’t bother with iZ3D’s demos to see if your Stereo 3D is working as expected, because it probably won’t be Ok in the demos (they are kind of buggy and don’t provide high enough framerate even on fast video cards). So instead just run a good S3D-capable game that looks nice with the added depth perception like Tomb Raider: Underworld for instance and when you start a level you can activate the 3D Stereo mode from the HMD (hold the Power button for a few seconds on the i-glasses to see the menu and activate 3D mode 1 or 2, doesn’t matter much) and the also from the iZ3D drivers by pressing the * key on the Numpad (the default hotkey to enable/disable the stereo mode). It is a good thing to also activate the Show FPS from the driver In-Game Options, but it is not required (it just helps to keep a track of the framerate)…


tomb-raider-underworld


If everything is working fine you should be able to see the game normally in Stereo 3D with the illusion for depth of objects and/or pop-out of the screen effect (depending on the game and the settings) and of course you can also play with the level of depth and convergence to achieve better results. If you see the image jumping on both displays of the i-glasses this means you have a problem with achieving high-enough framerate in the game – try lowering the level of detail. Unlike with Nvidia’s GeForce 3D Vision, when you are using iZ3D driver and get lower framerate than the refreshrate you’ve set on the i-glasses (for instance 100 frames for 100Hz, 50 fps for each eye) you loose the sync of the Stereo 3D mode and the image starts to “jump”. Nvidia has found a solution for this, but iZ3D are still working to make it work and you may have problems with this, especially if you try to run a heavy game on a not so powerful PC with a slower video card. You should also note that using the iZ3D driver with Shutter Output is not for free, you’ll have to pay $49.99 to buy a license for this mode, although you are good for up to a 120 days which it the time you get to freely test this mode. Also unlike with Nvidia’s 3D Vision, iZ3D drivers do not have so good compatibility with so many game titles, and while they do work well with quite a lot of titles still you might experience some games just crashing when you try to run them with the driver installed. Something that is good for owners of video cards not based on Nvidia GPUs is that iZ3D driver works independently of the VGA type, but still requires a fast graphics card. Also have in mind that the iZ3D driver still does not support SLI or Crossfire configurations (multiple video cards).

For more info about iZ3D, their Stereo 3D monitors and drivers…

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